Tag: sash joinery

Categories
Moulding planes People Planes

More from David Nelson on sash work

Dave Nelson
One of the most madly popular downloads from my site is David Nelson’s ‘Guide to English Sash Planes’ which he sent me a couple of months ago.
David has just sent me another two chapters of his book for download, ‘Sash Planes’ and ‘Sash Tools and Sticking Boards’.
English Sash Planes (The original download).
Sash Planes
Sash Tools and Sticking Boards
Thanks David!

Categories
History Practical techniques Richard Arnold

How to use a sash dowelling box

This beautiful sash dowelling box was given to Richard and resides in his tradition tool collection. He remarked on the excellent construction and the fact it seemed almost too professionally-made to be a user-made tool. After handling it, I would agree.

The glazing bar dowel joint quickly became superseded by the mitred joint. However, the joint itself (and the use of a sash dowelling box to make it) is of some interest to me. It’s actually very simple, as Richard Arnold showed me.

This beautiful sash dowelling box was given to Richard and resides in his tradition tool collection. He remarked on the excellent construction and the fact it seemed almost too professionally-made to be a user-made tool. After handling it, I would agree.
This beautiful sash dowelling box was given to Richard and resides in his tradition tool collection. He remarked on the excellent construction and the fact it seemed almost too professionally-made to be a user-made tool. After handling it, I would agree.

The screw underneath raises and lowers the end piece of the box, adjusting where the drill hole will be positioned on the butt end of the glazing bar.
The screw underneath raises and lowers the end piece of the box, adjusting where the drill hole will be positioned on the butt end of the glazing bar.
Insert your glazing bar, push it to the end and clamp down the screw on the top to hold it in position.
Insert your glazing bar, push it to the end and clamp down the screw on the top to hold it in position.

Makes sure it's fully seated or your hole will be in the wrong place.
Makes sure it’s fully seated or your hole will be in the wrong place.

Clamp the box endways in the vice and locate your bit into the drilling hole. The end box should already be raised to get the right height. Then just drill away.
Clamp the box endways in the vice and locate your bit into the drilling hole. The end box should already be raised to get the right height. Then just drill away.

There you have it. Your glazing bar is now ready for a dowel joint.
There you have it. Your glazing bar is now ready for a dowel joint.

Categories
Hand Tools Hollows & Rounds Moulding planes Practical techniques Richard Arnold

Richard Arnold’s glazing bars

A few more passes and you just have to make sure things look symmetrical. Easy for me to say, I was just snapping photos.

When I have a bit of downtime, I sometimes log into my ‘webstats’, so see which posts (if any!) are considered to be popular on my blog.
Always in the top of the league was a rather ‘cobbled-together’ post about making sash and using ‘templets’ for coping the joints of your glazing bars.
Whilst at Richard Arnold’s open day the other day, I had the pleasure of seeing Richard use these sash templates and their associated planes and I will soon post a few pictures about the technique, because I think people are obviously a little confused as to how they are used.
In the meantime, however, I’d like to show a series of pics of Richard sticking glazing bars before he starts considering the joints, because there are two quite surprising things I learned from his technique. I hope you will also find them interesting.

Any idea what this is? No? it's the tip of a simple cutlery knife. Richard has cut it off and ground the edge to make it sharp. he uses it as a 'bench knife'. Now, I always thought a bench knife was a simple knife that might have been left lying around on a bench, something that might have been used for simple tasks.
Any idea what this is? No? it’s the tip of a simple cutlery knife. Richard has cut it off and ground the edge to make it sharp. he uses it as a ‘bench knife’. Now, I always thought a bench knife was a simple knife that might have been left lying around on a bench, something that might have been used for simple tasks.
But no, Richard explained. Once your stock for your glazing bar is captive at the front end of the sticking board, you need a moveable element that will hold the other end. Bearing in mind your stock will be different lengths, it needs to be simple. Bring forth the 'bench knife'. Here, Richard slots the sharp edge into the end of the stock.
But no, Richard explained. Once your stock for your glazing bar is captive at the front end of the sticking board, you need a moveable element that will hold the other end. Bearing in mind your stock will be different lengths, it needs to be simple. Bring forth the ‘bench knife’. Here, Richard slots the sharp edge into the end of the stock.
A few quick taps and that little blade is biting the stock and securing it to the sticking board. Note it is also small enough not to impede the use of your planes.
A few quick taps and that little blade is biting the stock and securing it to the sticking board. Note it is also small enough not to impede the use of your planes.
The glazing rebate is taken out with a sash fillister. Working from the outer face (which will in fact be on the inside of the window), the upper glazing rebate is worked.
The glazing rebate is taken out with a sash fillister. Working from the outer face (which will in fact be on the inside of the window), the upper glazing rebate is worked.
Cutting until the sash fillister bottoms out. You would work out the thickness you require for the glazing bead, then the rebate needs to be half the depth that is left once that thickness is taken away from the thickness of the stock.
Cutting until the sash fillister bottoms out. You would work out the thickness you require for the glazing bead, then the rebate needs to be half the depth that is left once that thickness is taken away from the thickness of the stock.
Richard flips it over and works the other side to the same depth.
Richard flips it over and works the other side to the same depth.
Now look. The glazing bead is slotted into a rebate on the sticking board to hold it securely. That also has a screw to hold it, but transversely. Interesting. I think Richard just tapped the bench knife back in again after this.
Now look. The glazing bead is slotted into a rebate on the sticking board to hold it securely. That also has a screw to hold it, but transversely. Interesting. I think Richard just tapped the bench knife back in again after this.
Out come the sexy sash-ovolo planes with dovetailed boxing. Ooh, matron! Do you know why these often came in pairs, which looked almost identical? it's not the reason you're thinking. You'll have to ask Richard.
Out come the sexy sash-ovolo planes with dovetailed boxing. Ooh, matron! Do you know why these often came in pairs, which looked almost identical? it’s not the reason you’re thinking. You’ll have to ask Richard.
Off he goes, shaping first side. The planes are sprung, but you still need to keep your eye very much on holding the correct profile.
Off he goes, shaping first side. The planes are sprung, but you still need to keep your eye very much on holding the correct profile.
Nearly there!
Nearly there!
Again, the bead is held by the rebate for working the other side.
Again, the bead is held by the rebate for working the other side.
A few more passes and you just have to make sure things look symmetrical. Easy for me to say, I was just snapping photos.
A few more passes and you just have to make sure things look symmetrical. Easy for me to say, I was just snapping photos.
All that remains is to take of any sliver that might be clinging to the meeting of the top bead. This can be done with an appropriately-sized hollow plane.
All that remains is to take of any sliver that might be clinging to the meeting of the top bead. This can be done with an appropriately-sized hollow plane.
Categories
Practical techniques Restoration

Sash Joinery (Part 2)

A while ago I did a quick post about traditional sash joinery and the tools in the craft. I had a really good response about it, with lots of people wanting to know more, specifically the order of production and the precise nature of the various planes and templates.
These things are pretty hard to explain over email, so I was very pleased to stumble on this wonderful video, put out by the Arnold Zlotoff Tool Museum.
sash joinery
It’s a great little video and beautifully shot. It also shows the detail of how each part is made and the order to put things together. Absolutely wonderful. I hope this helps explain a few things for the people who asked. Enjoy!