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Practical techniques

Laying a parquet floor (Part Three)

Ok, a few hours free this morning, so a bit more work on the floor. As I walked into the kitchen I got the cold feeling of dread for the first time on this project as I once again saw the acres of dirty brown parquet. Whenever you do a decent-sized diy job, I find there’s nearly always an ‘over-the-hill’ moment. A moment when you have achieved a certain amount, but when you need to push yourself to get the rest finished!
I figured the best way to get my head into gear was to get on and do some work around the perimeter of the room, at least then I can ‘sign-off’ various parts of the kitchen knowing they are finished up to the wall, with only sanding and sealing to do.

As I'm not removing radiators in the kitchen, I'd quite like my border blocks to be half-finished, or I'll never be able to sand them down as they are, once they're cut around rad pipes. I set up a simple jig outside to hold individual blocks, by screwing three waste blocks to a board.
As I’m not removing radiators in the kitchen, I’d quite like my border blocks to be half-finished, or I’ll never be able to sand them down as they are, once they’re cut around rad pipes. I set up a simple jig outside to hold individual blocks, by screwing three waste blocks to a board.

The blocks simply slots in and is held whilst being worked on, by it's own tongue and groove.
The blocks simply slots in and is held whilst being worked on, by it’s own tongue and groove.

The blocks will still need some sanding, but this should make life a lot easier around those tricky bits.
The blocks will still need some sanding, but this should make life a lot easier around those tricky bits.

An easy way to make sure you are the right distance away from the wall all around the room is simply to cut a board and use that for your line.
An easy way to make sure you are the right distance away from the wall all around the room is simply to cut a board and use that for your line.

I want, want, want a Festool TS55, but until I feel flush enough a make-do solution is a level that's screwed down through it's holes to give you a hacked guide rail! I've already set the saw so I know that running the saw rail along the level will get me on the line.
I want, want, want a Festool TS55, but until I feel flush enough a make-do solution is a level that’s screwed down through it’s holes to give you a hacked guide rail! I’ve already set the saw so I know that running the saw rail along the level will get me on the line.

That'll do nicely.
That’ll do nicely.

Slightly crap picture here, probably due to hysterical shaking with the success of my spirit level guide rail. Chopping out the waste with old chisel. (While you're at it take off any big lumps of set glue and anything that might make for a dodgy line when the border goes in).
Slightly crap picture here, probably due to hysterical shaking with the success of my spirit level guide rail. Chopping out the waste with old chisel. (While you’re at it take off any big lumps of set glue and anything that might make for a dodgy line when the border goes in).

Work out how your corners will meet and run the pattern up to the next corner each way, so you don't get any nasty surprises with very slim blocks having to be cut. If you need to go long or short to make the next corner, take a little off each block, then by the time you get to the next corner, no-one will notice the shorties, just your magnificent corner. (nb: A couple of my block bits have popped out here when I was removing the waste. I've saved them and will glue them back in later).
Work out how your corners will meet and run the pattern up to the next corner each way, so you don’t get any nasty surprises with very slim blocks having to be cut. If you need to go long or short to make the next corner, take a little off each block, then by the time you get to the next corner, no-one will notice the shorties, just your magnificent corner.
(nb: A couple of my block bits have popped out here when I was removing the waste. I’ve saved them and will glue them back in later).

So just carry on round the room like this and that's your perimeter done. This will take me a while, so another post soon.
So just carry on round the room like this and that’s your perimeter done. This will take me a while, so another post soon.

Categories
Practical techniques

Laying a parquet floor (Part Two)

Not feeling I’d done quite enough to lose my (already too few) readers, I’d thought I’d post an update on the thrilling parquet job I’m doing in my kitchen. As you might remember from the last post’s cliffhanger, I had laid the soldier course and was waiting for that to dry.
Well, it dried.
Ok, so then it’s just a case of filling in with successive rows, in the herringbone fashion. The job is made easier by the fact you can tap blocks up to the dry line of blocks, giving you a reference, however, you do have to watch that you don’t get ‘pattern creep’, with small gaps rapidly becoming larger as the line gradually shifts on the wet glue.
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Parquet4
Parquet5
If all goes well, you’ll find you will approach your perimeter ‘glue line’ around the edge of the room. When placing the last blocks, only glue up to that line, although the blocks will overhang. This will be trimmed off later. Remember, two blocks width and 10mm extra. You will find small discrepancies in the block sizes, they are reclaimed after all. If you get gaps of say, 2-3mm, don’t worry, you can fill these during the sanding and sealing process by mixing glue with the sawdust that comes from the sanding. You can also fill most of the depth with a sliver cut from another block, then fill with the glue/sawdust mix. However, if you’re getting gaps of 4-5mm, take the blocks off and try again. Quite often I could see a problem developing with gaps, but then a slightly narrower block bought me back into line.
I’ve now covered most of the main floor and am now taking both ‘zigzags’ left out through two door thresholds. When they are both dry, I’ll lay another string and line the two up to run another soldier course straight down the hall to work off.
Stay tuned for more gripping adventures.

Categories
Practical techniques

Laying a parquet floor

Parquet1
Apologies for the lack of posts recently, but as well as having a day job, I’ve been cracking on with laying a parquet floor in the kitchen.
If you’ve never done it, I would definitely say have a go. Like most things connected with woodwork, it’s really all a case of spending a while on preparation.
As I’m laying onto bare floorboards, I’ve screwed 9mm ply down with 25mm screws on 5″ centres, (it really only needs to be 6″ centres, but the floor was a bit wavy). After that you go round the perimeter of the room and mark out 10-12mm from wall. (This is your expansion gap in case the wood moves and will in any case be covered by the skirting when it goes back on).
Then mark out two block widths for the perpendicular ‘ribbon’ of parquet that will run around the edge. All the other parquet is laid first on the floor in herringbone fashion and when you get to the inner line, (two block + 10mm away from wall), that’s as far as you glue up to. The glue is a specialist product which bonds very well not only with the ply sub-floor, but also with the remains of the bitumen on the backs of the blocks.
Once you’ve covered the floor in your herringbone pattern, use a circular saw to cut back to the glue line and lay the outside perimeter blocks. It’s then just a question of sanding, sealing etc.
Parquet2
The blocks are tongued and grooved, so laying them isn’t too hard. Just watch for creep with the pattern running out of true either way. I sighted with a string line, which is essential really. The first course takes a day or two to dry, then subsequent courses should be easier as I can tap blocks up to the ‘soldier course’, knowing they are true.
More soon no doubt.
Parquet3

Categories
Hackney Practical techniques

D.i.y Dad

floor
Ok, half-term has arrived, and so instead of building nice storage cabinets for some of my tools, I’m getting on with my kitchen renovation. Apologies for lack of blog posts over the last couple of weeks. I’ve been sorting plumbers and electricians and have myself been starting on the floor.
I plan to put down parquet blocks, so have been stripping off the old lino and the thin, flaky chipboard underneath. To replace it, I’ve been advised a good base for parquet is 9mm ply. I’ve been screwing that down with 6″ centres over the whole kitchen.
Nearly finished now, but if I ever see another 4x25mm brass wood screw, it will be too soon. I was feeling very smug when I got a good deal on the ply and the smile has gradually disappeared from my face as I’ve realised how much I’ve spent on decent screws.
The parquet will be reclaimed from an old 1930’s school in Broadstairs and will be a nice long 12″ by 3″ Columbian Pine block. Quite excited to see how this is going to turn out.
I might blog a few pics as I move through the project, but the kitchen has made me realise how much I could have done myself, if only I had the gear and space to work. Apart from the fact I could have made new cabinets all round, I could have custom-fitted everything, instead of relying on the slightly wacky sizes from Ikea and such.
Oh well. Anything should be an improvement. The kitchen was in need of a revamp when we moved in, and now I realise that was seven years ago!
One tool I would very much like to have is a Festool TS55, for cutting the border of the parquet back and general tomfoolery with trying to make units for the walls. Wish they weren’t so expensive though.