It’s nice to have a moment to write a blog post, it’s been way too long.
I won’t bore you with the details, but the house renovation I’ve been working on has taken much longer than I thought it would, mainly because I get there only for one or two days in the week.
I’m finally onto some joinery however, having finished with all the ‘wet trades’ long ago. The electrician had a final visit last week and from this Monday, the plumbing will all be done with too.
I’ve turned my attention to some Shaker-style doors I’ve been meaning to make for a long while for the bedroom cupboards.
As I’m trying to finish as fast as I can now, I figured I may as well invest in some Festool power tools. I bought the TS55 track saw from a friend a while back and this week added a Domino DF500.
If you don’t know the Domino, it’s a nice tool for cutting mortises which Festool’s own ‘Dominos’ fit into. It’s basically a fast way of making a loose tenon. The machine works very well and I had the doors made in no time.
If I did have a problem, it’s with the saw. The TS55 seems to be holding back by 1-2 degrees when it should be full open at 90 degrees. It’s annoying as it means when you crosscut for a Domino joint, the joint has a tiny gap when you Domino it. Then when you join and glue, the pressure from your clamps pushes the joint out of shape.
If anyone has details about how I can fix this saw issue, can you please let me know?
I have already fiddled with the two silver adjustment screws, and I thought I had pulled the base plate in enough to make it perpendicular to the blade. But when I used the saw again today, same problem, the cuts weren’t straight.
The pic below is how the blade looks when the saw is fully open. (I can’t hear a click or anything else to suggest I should move the saw back a degree or so, for me, it’s useless if it doesn’t click to exactly 90 degrees.
Category: Tool Makers
Wha?

I recently purchased a Lie Nielsen Honing Guide. I really love the build quality, but I’m getting a poor result with my sharpening.
I’m hoping that by putting this out to the ‘hive mind’ of the internet, someone might be able to help me identify my problem.
I’ve checked the jaws of the tool close tightly, (they do) and they also close without any wayward flexing or offset.
When I clamp a chisel in the jaws, the chisel is perfectly square, as you can see in the photo.
However, after some sharpening, the honing is definitely not square.
Am I doing something wrong here?
I really want this to be my ‘go to’ system and I have two very decent diamond stones which I’m pleased with for the actual cutting. I just want to move away from freehand sharpening and I figured this would be a good guide. However, I’m wary about buying to extra set of jaws I need for some different chisels, before I can rectify this problem.
Hope someone out there can advise.
Thanks, Gary
This is a tool that could well interest a few people. After a few years of on-off tool hunting, I’ve only come across a few Preston 2500P router planes and those I have found have tended to stay in my box and not sold on. They are a great tool to have around, but as I say, not easy to find.
A relatively new toolmaking duo from the US, Walke Moore, are now producing a similar plane that looks to be very nicely put together and looks to do the same job.
The 2500 (they dropped the ‘P’ because it’s not an exact copy of the Preston and it’s good to have some differentiation in the naming), is on their website now, priced at $274.00, with the option to add more knobs to the order.
You can choose the Preston or Stanley-style knobs, (although Stanley only made the the ’71’ configuration I believe) and the tool comes as a bronze, machined casting with an O1 steel cutter. The great thing about this style of plane is the enormous variety of uses, due to the different positions you can place the knobs.
It looks to be a well-made tool, although personally I would gripe at cleaning up pale wood because of bronze markings. That’s something that’s always made me shy away from LN bronze tools for the same reason. It seems odd to me that people don’t mind re-planing stock or sanding it, after their high-end, expensive plane has made marks all over it. However, I would say, in it’s defence you can still add a wooden base to the router with built-in screw holes and this was also a common thing to do with the earlier planes.
I’ll stick with my Preston for now, but good to see new makers on the scene. Here are some more pics, courtesy of Walke Moore. Walker Moore also have an Instagram feed, showing more pics and video.
PS. I did once find a nice page showing a chap making his own wooden plane that did the same job. Damned if I can find it now, of course, such is the confusing morass we have built and called the internet. If anyone recalls this, please do comment.
More pics of Norris 6 planes
Further to my queries about my own Norris 6G, a kindly reader has sent some pics of his own (No.6) plane, which seem to have the same characteristic details that I questioned in my plane. Thanks goes out for these pics, it’s sometimes very hard to find good photos for comparisons.

This post is written by Colin Sullivan, who has previously shown his very nicely-made Stanley No.9 Cabinet Makers plane. Here, Colin shows another nice bit of engineering, a Stanley ‘164’ copy, for which he’s used a standard Stanley No.4 as the starting point. Colin writes:
This plane is made from an early no. 4 body – this one model has just enough metal in the base to take a thread for the cap iron bolt. A small block of metal was glued into the sole for machining and the whole base was milled to 11deg. the plane iron angle for the Stanley 164, see drawing for details. Stanley only made this low angle smoother from 1926 to 1943, and now it is both scarce and expensive!
It was designed by EA Schade using the Bailey method of blade adjustment on the top of the cap iron to allow for the very low blade angle of 12 deg. The blade is from Lie Nielsen who make a copy of the 164, in bronze with an adjustable mouth the same as Stanley. The cap iron is S/S and the adjusting lever is mild steel using the standard small brass knob for adjustment.
The mouth is not adjustable like the original but it ended up just right and performs very well, well worth the time spent making it.