Hand Tools Practical techniques Saws

Saw till done!

All done. I’ll get this on the wall at some point, but for now it’s on the bench. I added some wood strips with saw kerfs cut on the table saw and the saw blades rest in those. I have a little space at the top right above the smaller saws, which I might use. But I think I will also add a slim drawer at the bottom in the near future, as I can use that for saw files and stuff. A nice project to do with hand tools. I’m going to make some Krenov-style ‘bents’ next.

Hand Tools Practical techniques Saws

Making a saw till (part two)

I worked on this for an hour or so, but I have just got the green light to get going on some paid work, so it will stay at this stage for a while. The basics are there, I will probably paint it and perhaps add a drawer.

The dovetails are cut back underneath to slim them down so that the front bar doesn’t show any gaps. A knife-wall to help my saw cut.

Now it’s cut back, any small gaps will be hidden.

Adding a cut back dovetail also helps with registering for the marking out. A bit like the ‘140 trick’.

Take your depth reference from the thinned down joint, not the full depth.

Marked out for cuts.

Nice tight fit.

Both ends fit well and I can plane off the ends later. Might leave them though?

I also added a chamfer on the top edges of the front bar as the horn of the saw totes will be sitting on it.

Taking another depth reference for the second rear rail.

Cutting out rebates for second rail. Place thse rails in the best possible positions which approximately match the common heights of your saws. The rails will have blocks added with saw cuts afterwards, but try to get them sort of in the right place.

Chopping out rebates for rear rail.

Chopping out rebates for rear rail.

Clean up with a decent paring chisel.

Take your time and you will get some nice, crisp rebates.

Looking good.

As it’s on the back, you can get away with glue and screws here for extra strength.

I’ve put the two rear rails in and it’s not far off.

I quite like these protruding ends. I might chamfer the edges with a sharp chisel and leave them on. What do you think?

Hand Tools Practical techniques Saws

Making a saw till

Glad to say I’ve finally found a workshop close to me that I can call home. The workshop is blessed with old machines and even better, other people from whom I can learn a lot about traditional joinery. It feels like every day I conquer a new technique with my hand tools, or learn a better way to do something on one of the machines.
I’ve been waiting on a client to give the go-ahead on the next job, so thought I would put together a saw till to get my saws neatly organised.
This wall-hung design relies on the saw totes resting on a bottom bar and the plates of the saws are held in place by kerfs in blocks further up. it will all make sense as you see it come together.
If you’re going to make one of these, I would choose something more hard-wearing than the Poplar I have lying around. I’ve gone with softwood, purely because I have a chunk left over. I plan to make another till in the future from a denser timber, but this will do for now.

I laid my various saws onto a piece of mdf and keeping the horn of the tote in the same place, sketched out where the saw would fall if it was leaning into the till. I have a mix of tenon, dovetail and larger saws.

I cut this out to a nice curve, the shape of which will be the side of the saw till. You don’t have to have a curve, just go straight if you like.

If you’re planning on using a router to cut your curve, you can of course use your mdf template. Just sand it nicely and clamp it over your timber with a bearing bit to follow the shape. I wanted to use hand tools, so I just used the template to trace the sides. Two sides fitted onto my scrap timber.

I made a concession to machines and roughly cut the sides on a bandsaw.

Out withe the spokeshave. When you get a spokeshave sharpened up and dialled in, there really is no nicer tool to use. The finish on the edges of these sides is glass smooth.

So there we are, two matched sides.

This will be the bar across the front of the till. It will tie the sides together, but as it’s also on the front, I’ll put a dovetail on both ends, rather than use screws.

Dovetails are cut, but I might also cut back the depth of the dovetail before I rebate it, so the bar definitely won’t show the joint.

I’ll do a bit more tomorrow. Then it’s back stretchers in too. They can be screwed as you won’t see them, but they do need to be rebated as well. There enough space below the bar to hopefully get a small drawer in here, so I can maybe use that for saw files, etc.

Hand Tools Paul Sellers Practical techniques Saws

Paul Sellers on crosscut saw sharpening

Paul Seller crosscut saw sharpening
Paul Sellers is always worth a watch in my book and slowly I’m finding more and more reasons to sign up for his Woodworking Masterclasses. My lack of available space to put anything into practice is the only thing that holds me back. I know once I have watched his Tool Cupboard series I would be dying to make it.
For the time being, the free video about sharpening crosscut saws is of interest, especially the idea of using a paper template for the sharpening angle.
It’s worth scrolling through Paul’s videos, because he done a lot and a good proportion are free.

Disston Hand Tools Saws

Disston ’76’ Centennial Skew Back Saw

Sold to a fellow in the summer, but he decided he didn’t want it, so I bought it back! Stunning rare saw, 28″ long, skew back with 4 t.p.i. Needs a clean and a sharpen. Nothing will be safe with this bad boy on the loose.

Disston '76' Centennial Skewback Saw_1
Disston '76' Centennial Skewback Saw_2
Disston '76' Centennial Skewback Saw_3
Disston '76' Centennial Skewback Saw_4

See The ‘Disstonian Insititute‘ for full info.

Introduced in 1876, the Disston No. 76 “Centennial” handsaw was a hybrid of the No. 7 and a brand new model, the D-8. The D-8 or No. 80 “Choice” — as it was labeled for a time, featured a “skew” back and an applewood handle. The No. 76 took some of its features from the unique D-8 model, but retained the feel of the older designs with a handle that keeps the user’s hand farther from the blade. It has the shape of the handle used on No. 7 saws that were 28″ and longer, with the smooth cut-out on the top for more comfortable two-handed use. The No. 76 was sold until about 1920. It’s not nearly so commonly found as the No. 7, D-8, or even the No. 12 models.