I have no idea whether I’m doing this correctly, but it all seems to be going ok. By all means send me tips on how to do this better, or ‘right’. I value the opinions of full-time joiners who do this for a living, especially traditional hand tools workers.
Right, I had a bit of time between the plasterers, electricians and plumbers in the house, so onwards with renovating this old door.
I bought this rebated bolection moulding from an online supplier. I’ve been looking at a lot of east London doors from the period and this bolection was widely used on nicer doors.
To choose the right moulding, I printed the pdfs from the online catalogue and held them up to the door.
I will be adding the moulding to the lower panels as well as the upper glazed panels. The lower ones are without any profile at all here, because I’m flipping the door to keep the hinges on the same side for the joiner when he hangs the door. The old door was left-side hinged, but my house door needs to be right-side.
A little trick I learned from an old picture framer. Mouldings are easier to hold in place if you flip one on top of the other and clamp them down. It works with most profiles. Instant holder!
If anyone has opinions about massive workshops, £4k Roubo workbenches and insights on bench height they want to share, they are probably on the wrong blog.
I honed my Stanley 9 1/2 blade on the diamonds before I started this job. You don’t need anything better.
This will do, once a finger of filler is wiped over. The door is recessed from the elements in an alcove. If I was door a door for bad weather, it would be appropriate to add the mouldings when the door has just been painted, the wet paint gives a good seal.
Lower panels look good. Very pleased with the proportions of the profile.
On to the top panels.
Purely because I haven’t ordered my profiles for the back of the glazing yet, I went ahead and did the bolection on the front anyway. The job would be easier if I did this the other way round, i.e. put in the back moulding, add the glass, then clamp and nail the bolection down tight on the front. Well, I just wanted to get the front done and it went ok.
4 replies on “Glazing a Victorian Door (part 2)”
It gives the door some real depth, looks good. You know you really could have impressed me if you would have made the moulding with your hollows and rounds.
Thanks Jeff. You know, I was thinking as I did this, ‘I should get my moulding planes here and make this myself’. However, the reality of it would have been a journey to my storage unit to retrieve the planes, a few days sharpening them to get them working, then buying stock and probably messing a few lengths up in the process! To get the mouldings matching, I would have to stick 2.5 metre pieces at a time, and I don’t even have a bench at this house I’m renovating. This time round, the speed of the job forces this approach, but the moulding planes will return very soon. Once the house is finished, it’s time to try to find somewhere to work!
Lovely job. Would you mind sharing the contact details of the moulding supplier? I cant find a local supplier and www searches are missing the mark. I’d be really grateful.
Hi, DW Mouldings in Tottenham will make whatever profile you need. Thanks